About Mencia from Bierzo, an indigenous red variety of Northwestern Spain
September 14, 2011
Mencia from Bierzo
If today’s headline doesn’t ring a bell, don’t be embarrassed: Your many responses to last Monday’s exploration off the wine world’s beaten path offered sufficient encouragement to inspire yet another walk on the wild side. So, for today’s featured wine I’m pulling the cork on yet another grape and region obscure enough that even many serious wine geeks would have to look up.
Mencia is the grape, an indigenous red variety of Northwestern Spain that was once thought to be a cousin of Cabernet Franc. It long had a lackluster reputation as the source of lightweight wines, but recent hillside plantings and serious vineyard management have demolished that myth, and DNA testing has ruled out the Cab Franc connection.
Bierzo is a small wine region in the Northwestern “shoulder” of Spain, not far across the national border from Portugal’s Tras-os-Montes, north of the Douro. It’s another of those wine places that you may not have heard of … yet. But there’s a good chance that you’ll be hearing a lot more about Bierzo – and the Mencia grape – before very long, as some very serious players in the Spanish wine industry are hard at work there.
Today’s wine, 2005 “Pétalos” Bierzo, made by the Descendientes de José Palacios, offers an excellent case in point. Alvaro Palacios, making wine here with his nephew Ricardo Pérez Palacios, was one of the leaders in the spectacular rebirth of Priorat, at the far other end of Spain, during the ’90s. Now they’re making similar efforts to return Bierzo to its historic stature, and this still-affordable wine makes a strong case for the region’s potential.
Biodynamically produced, it sees only four months in French oak, long enough to add a dash of spice without overwhelming the fruit. No lightweight by any measure, it doesn’t give me any hint of Cabernet Franc, although I could make a case for likening its plummy, weighty yet attractively acidic style to a very good Petite Sirah.
Introducing The California Wine Club’s By Reservation Only Program
Many of California’s highest-rated and most coveted wines sell out before countless wine consumers ever have the chance to purchase even one bottle.
Wines like these are even difficult for us to find. In fact, we sometimes acquire so few cases, we are unable to feature them in the club and instead offer them to a select group of customers.
Our By Reservation Only program gives you access to the wines you want with no commitment and no obligation.
How it works:
• When a very special or limited wine opportunity comes up, we will automatically reserve a case for you.
• Once your case has been reserved, we will email you. At that time, you can choose to accept or withdraw your reservation.
• Priority is given on a first-come, first-served basis. The longer you are on the list, the higher your priority level.
Palacios 2005 “Pétalos” Bierzo ($18)
This is a very dark blackish-purple wine, almost opaque in the glass; ruby glints flash against a strong light. Black plums and spice on the nose, deep and rich. Flavors are consistent with the nose, concentrated black fruit shaped by sharp acidity and texture, soft tannins and perceptible warmth from 14% alcohol. U.S. importer: The Rare Wine Co., Vineburg, Calif. (Jan. 14, 2007)
FOOD MATCH: In retrospect, this is a wine for red meats, grilled poultry or sharp cheeses. It wasn’t a bad flavor match with my more offbeat choice, Roman straciatella (egg drop) soup with veal meatballs and spinach, turning the dish into a variation on “Italian Wedding Soup;” but the wine was just hearty enough to dominate the more delicate dish.
VALUE: The near cult-level reputation of Alvaro Palacios in Priorat is probably elevating the price of this wine that bears his family name, but its good combination of power and balance justifies an upper-teens price, particularly if you enjoy expanding your “life list” of unusual varieties and regions tasted.
WHEN TO DRINK: Its fruit, structure and balance suggest ageworthiness, although I can’t claim any experience with aging Mencia. I’d certainly be willing to risk putting away a bottle or two for five years or even 10.
Terroirs of Burgundy with Robin Garr
Burgundy, one of the world’s most glorious wine regions, is also one of the most difficult to learn. With its rich and ancient heritage, the map of Burgundy is intriguingly complex. More challenging still, Burgundy’s rarity and great demand drives trophy-level prices, placing many of its greatest wines out of easy reach for most wine enthusiasts.
But what wine lover hasn’t dreamed of touring Burgundy, meeting its wine makers and learning about its wines?
Now, with the respected wine-touring company French Wine Explorers, we’ve crafted a special, once-in-a-lifetime Terroirs of Burgundy tour aimed at providing thrifty, value-seeking wine lovers the rare opportunity to spend almost a week in Burgundy, enjoying VIP-style winery visits, comfortable accommodations and indulgent Burgundian meals in a varied group of typical regional bistrots and country inns.
If you’ve long dreamed of learning Burgundy and its wines with an expert at hand but thought you couldn’t possibly afford it, I invite you to consider The Terroirs of Burgundy. I’ll be personally leading the July 2-7, 2007 tour, and I promise maximum “bang for the buck” for thrifty wine lovers.
Source: http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/tswa070115.phtml
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How to get to this fine-dining restaurant in Clark Philippines? Once you get to Clark Freeport, go straight until you hit Mimosa. After you enter Mimosa, stay on the left on Mimosa Drive, go past the Holiday Inn and Yats Restaurant (green top, independent 1-storey structure) is on your left. Just past the Yats Restaurant is the London Pub.
Yats Restaurant & Wine Bar
Mimosa Drive past Holiday Inn, Mimosa Leisure Estate,
Clark Freeport Zone, Pampanga, Philippines 2023
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3003C East Tower, Phil Stock Exchange Center,
Exchange Rd Ortigas Metro Manila, Philippines 1605
(632) 637-5019 0917-520-4393 Rea or Chay
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