An American Hears the Call of Burgundy
August 21, 2011
By ERIC ASIMOV
BEFORE his 29th birthday, Ray Walker became the first American ever to make Le Chambertin, the grand cru red Burgundy that is one of the most revered names in wine. How Mr. Walker came to make this wine is a story of passion and perseverance, family support and great good fortune, naïveté and surprises, not least of which is that Mr. Walker had never drunk a Chambertin before he made his own.
Happily-ever-after tales are rare in the wine business, which generally operates on the more down-to-earth plane of crafty marketing and cut-throat competition. But Mr. Walker’s entry into the famously insular world of Burgundy, with little money, no connections and virtually no experience in winemaking, seems straight from the annals of fairy godmothers and Prince Charmings.
Today, Mr. Walker — tall and lean with sculptured good looks — and his wife, Christian, are the proud proprietors of Maison Ilan, a small négociant business here in the heart of the Côte de Nuits. It is named after their young daughter, Isabella Ilan Walker.
Up to now, they have made only a little bit of red wine, including two grand crus, Le Chambertin and Charmes-Chambertin. The wines are elegant, fresh, structured and graceful — astoundingly so, given they were made by a novice.
As a younger man, Mr. Walker, who grew up in the Bay Area and worked there in his family’s real estate business, was decidedly not a wine drinker. It was not until he met his future wife, who liked wine, that the subject came up.
“We’d get into heated arguments,” Mr. Walker, now 30, recalled during a recent visit to his small, spotless winery underneath his house here. “She’d say, ‘Adults drink wine with food,’ and I’d say, ‘Only alcoholics do.’ ”
Not until they traveled to Italy, where Mr. Walker proposed marriage, did he see the light. It shined so brightly that he became obsessed with wine.
At first he studied Bordeaux. But early in 2005 he sampled a 2002 Meursault Clos de la Barre from Comtes Lafon, a white Burgundy. Another bright light went off.
“Oh my God, this is nature!” he recalled saying after tasting the wine, his excitement of the moment still palpable. “From that moment on, I was certain I was going to explore Burgundy. And then we got into the reds, and I couldn’t believe it.”
For two years, Mr. Walker carried around “Côte d’Or,” Clive Coates’s magnum opus on Burgundy. Finally, in 2008, as he was training for a new job at Merrill Lynch, with his wife six months pregnant, he realized he was not happy. With her support, he quit to learn about the wine business.
Before long he was hired at Freeman Winery in Sebastopol, in Sonoma County, to wash barrels and help with bottling and the harvest.
“He’s a really bright guy, and he gets it right away,” said Ed Kurtzman, the winemaker at Freeman. “He was driven and knew exactly what he wanted to do, though I don’t think he knew where he was going to end up.”
At Freeman, Mr. Walker learned the basics of making wine. The ambition was growing to do it himself, but when he was offered some petite sirah grapes to turn into wine, he could not muster enthusiasm.
“My wife said: ‘Don’t do that. We don’t drink wines like that,’ ” he recalled. She asked him what he was most passionate about, and the answer, Burgundy, was obvious. So were the obstacles.
In the real world, people do not leave their jobs, their wives, their new babies because they fantasize about making wine in Burgundy. If the all-too-real logistical and financial difficulties are not enough to swat down such ambitions, certainly the dubious prospects of acquiring grapes and equipment and enough money would do the trick. Yet here was Mr. Walker’s wife and parents urging him to follow his heart. What else was he to do?
Source: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/07/27/dining/with-maison-ilan-an-american-winemaker-invades-burgundy.html?_r=2
Best restaurant in Pampanga wins international award from Wine Spectator for best restaurant one of the best wine lists in the world, as wine lovers from Manila, Hong Kong and China take note and plan for a visit to this fine dining establishment whenever they visit the Philippines, Subic, Angeles City, Pampanga or Clark Philippines
Vegans and vegetarians are not the only ones to applaud this move to revamp and upgrade the vegetarian menu of the best restaurant in Pampanga. Even meat lovers are excited by the prospect of enjoying a delectable meal comprised of healthy vegetarian dishes, a good reprieve from their usual meat laden meals. Wine lovers applaud the effort of this restaurant in Clark Pampanga to pair gourmet vegetarian recipes with fine vintage wines.
Yats Restaurant is the best restaurant for special dinner, best restaurant for dinner with friends near Manila, also the best place to celebrate special events.
A Well-known Restaurant in Pampnga, an interesting place to celebrate Birthday Party in Pampnga.
A best place to dine with friends in Pampanga
Restaurant in Clark Pampanga revamps menu, adding delectable dishes at affordable, wine friendly too, certainly a great place to eat while in Pampanga. Vegans, vegetarians and health conscious diners welcome the news that Yats Leisure has upgraded its vegetarian menu of fine dining Yats Restaurant and Wine Bar in Clark. At the same time, this restaurant in Pampanga also makes the healthy cuisine wine friendly for the wine lovers in Manila, Clark, Pampanga. The guests that frequently visit this top rated restaurant in Angeles City, Clark Philippines, for this special menu are not only vegetarians and vegans but also meat lovers who welcome a reprieve from their usual meat laden diets to enjoy a delectable vegetarian meal. Yats is generally considered the best restaurant for gourmet vegetarian food. Wine lovers are particularly excited about the fact that these recipes are designed to pair splendidly with wine.
For comments, inquiries and reservations click on Click here for inquiry and reservations
Restaurant@Yats-International.com
(045) 599-5600
0922-870-5178
0917-520-4401
Ask for Pedro and Rechel
Getting to this fine dining restaurant of Angeles City Clark Freeport Zone Pampanga Philippines
How to get to this fine-dining restaurant in Clark Philippines? Once you get to Clark Freeport, go straight until you hit Mimosa. After you enter Mimosa, stay on the left on Mimosa Drive, go past the Holiday Inn and Yats Restaurant (green top, independent 1-storey structure) is on your left. Just past the Yats Restaurant is the London Pub.
Yats Restaurant & Wine Bar
Mimosa Drive past Holiday Inn, Mimosa Leisure Estate,
Clark Freeport Zone, Pampanga, Philippines 2023
Manila Sales Office
3003C East Tower, Phil Stock Exchange Center,
Exchange Rd Ortigas Metro Manila, Philippines 1605
(632) 637-5019 0917-520-4393 Rea or Chay
For any assistance in planning and organizing a wedding ceremony, indoor or outdoor garden reception or to find other wedding service providers, Click here to contact us click here
For assistance in hotel and resort bookings in Clark, Pampanga, Philippines, log on to
http://www.HotelClarkPhilippines.com
To buy wine in Manila, Pampanga, Angeles City, Clark or Subic please log on to http://www. ClarkWineCenter.com
To inquire with the highly recommended beach resort hotel in Clark Pampanga visit http://www.ClearwaterPhililippines.com
For more information about Clark, Pampanga, Philippines log on to
http://www.ClarkPhilippines.com
