COLUMN: The future of American wine: Washington state
September 14, 2011
FLORENCE, SC —
For decades, we, the average wine buyers, have been sold on the fact that California is the only place to buy the best American wine. In the past this was true, but over the years, wineries from Oregon have put themselves on the map as well as wineries from places like New York, Virginia and even Texas. Now, we look to the future of wine in America: we look to Washington.
One of the greatest misnomers in Washington is that it has nothing but rain, suicides and G-8 protests. The politician with the most influence is Pearl Jam’s Eddie Vedder and the fashion statement is flannel. Yes, some of this is true, but the reality of Washington is that it is an amazing state with beautiful areas such as Mount Ranier, the Columbia River Gorge and Route 12 from Walla Walla to the Oregon border (one of the most beautiful drives I have ever experienced in my life). Just to the eastern side of the Cascade Mountains, Washington is a different state. Rainy days give way to desert-like conditions where the fog off the Columbia River feed all the moisture necessary to make world class wine.
These areas in Washington support a burgeoning wine industry that is more than just behemoths such as the greats: Chateau Ste. Michelle and Columbia Crest. Washington will grow to be one of, if not the best site for Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Riesling and Syrah.
The wine styles that Washington state produces are full-bodied, fruit concentrated and full-flavored. The reds are big and the whites are dry. Some examples include:
• Charles Smith “Kung Fu Girl” Dry Riesling. Are you thinking Riesling is a sweet grape? Think again! Here’s a little trivia fact: 90 percent of all Riesling produced is dry. Kung Fu Girl is a great example of what this dry Riesling should taste like. It has a taste of apples, with a floral nose. Currently this is one of my favorite wines to have with spicy food or simply on an insanely hot day.
• Cougar Crest Anniversary Cuvée. Bordeaux blends are the hallmark of Washington State wines. This one in particular is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. It is a wonderful blend that is strong on the nose of blueberries, coconuts and bacon (seriously, who doesn’t love bacon?) that follows through with the power of a high-end Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. This is what I would like to think of as an ultimate steak wine.
• Anything that has come from Seven Hills Vineyard. Seven Hills is one of those astonishing vineyards that produce legendary wines. This vineyard produces such grapes as Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah, but the true standout in this vineyard is Merlot. Merlot in this vineyard is reminiscent of some of the best Merlot to come off the right bank in Bordeaux; except (in this writer’s opinion) better AND cheaper. If it can be found, look for L’Ecole No. 41 Merlot (I’m still trying to get my hands on some) and the elusive, mail order-only Arcane Cellars Merlot. You may not want to drink anything else.
Thanks to the quality of Chateau Ste Michelle and Columbia Crest, Washington state is on the wine map. Now, take a step further and have a taste of what else is out there. I think that you will be pleasantly surprised.
Cheers!
Joshua Mason is the fine wine buyer for Micky Finn’s on South Cashua Drive in Florence.
Source: http://www2.scnow.com/lifestyles/pee-dee/2011/jul/27/column-future-american-wine-washington-state-ar-2190296/
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