More about Austrian wines after the scandal

Date: January 05, 2011

About Wines from Austria
Best wine supplier in Philippines discusses wine related topics

Modernity entered Austria’s winemaking after a scandal nearly wrecked domestic and foreign markets in 1985, when a few producers added diethylene glycol, an antifreeze agent, to enhance body and sweetness and justify higher prices (there were no deaths).

Parliament enacted perhaps Europe’s most stringent wine legislation. Young winemakers, drawn by the law’s emphasis on quality over quantity, brought cutting-edge techniques and farsightedness to vineyards and cellars, revolutionizing both.

Today, Austrian whites are 70 percent of output; reds, 30 percent.

Consumers, merchants and restaurateurs worldwide prize the best dry versions of Austria’s native, peppery grüner veltliners and mineral-like rieslings, both whites, while sales have risen, especially in America; graceful sauvignon blancs, underappreciated abroad, await recognition. Juicy, highly flavorsome reds – zweigelt, blaufränkisch and St. Laurent – are winning broad acceptance. Rosés, sweet wines (particularly ausbruchs) and lean sekts (sparklers) abound.

About 73 percent of Austria’s production – which is small, about one-fifth of France’s – is consumed inside its borders.

Wines originate in four regions in eastern Austria: Niederösterreich (Lower Austria), mostly west of Vienna; Burgenland, south of the capital; Steiermark (Styria), southwest; and Wien (Vienna).

Lower Austria, the pre-eminent wine zone, has these regions: Wachau, Kremstal, Kamptal, Traisental, Wagram (formerly Donauland), Weinviertel, Carnuntum and Thermenregion. Burgenland encompasses four subregions: Neusiedlersee (Lake Neusiedl), Neusiedlersee-Hügelland, and Middle and South Burgenland. Steiermark is an amalgam of South, Southeast and West Steiermark.

The foremost producers in the Wachau, partly defined by the beautiful Danube, include Alzinger, Domäne Wachau (formerly Freie Weingärtner Wachau), Hirtzberger, Högl, Jamek, Knoll, Lagler, Nikolaihof, F.X. Pichler, Rudi Pichler, Prager, Schmelz and Tegernseerhof.

Kamptal’s include Bründlmayer, Ehn, Hiedler, Hirsch, Jurtschitsch, Schloss Gobelsburg, Steininger and Loimer. Kremstal’s embrace Malat, Mantlerhof, Sepp Moser, Nigl, Salomon-Undhof and Weingut Stadt Krems.

Carnuntum offers Glatzer, Grassl, Gerhard Markowitsch and Pitnauer. In Traisental, it’s Neumayer. In Thermenregion, Alphart, Biegler, Fischer, Johanneshof and Stadlmann. In Wagram, Bauer, Fritsch, Leth, Ott and Wimmer-Czerny. And in Weinviertel, Graf Hardegg and Pfaffl.

Burgenland is rich in achievers: Paul Achs, Feiler-Artinger, Gsellmann and Gsellmann, Gernot Heinrich, Kracher-Weinlaubenhof, Kollwentz-Römerhof, Krutzler, Lang, Hans and Anita Nittnaus, Pöckl, Prieler, Schröck, Ernst Triebaumer, Umathum, Velich and Weninger. Steiermark’s best include Gross, Lackner-Tinnacher, Polz, Sabathi, Sattlerhof, Tement and Wohlmuth.

Full appreciation of Wachau’s standard-setting whites requires knowledge of special designations: steinfeder, denoting low alcohol and feathery lightness; federspiel, fruitiness and medium weight; smaragd, full body and complexity

An insightful introduction to dry whites can involve virtually any from Bründlmayer, Schloss Gobelsburg, Nigl and the biodynamic Nikolaihof.

For reds, any from Pöckl, Triebaumer and Umathum. No dessert wines rival the brilliant whites crafted by the late Alois Kracher. High-end wines typically cost $20 to $90. — Howard G. Goldberg, March 24, 2008.

SOURCE: http://topics.nytimes.com/topics/reference/timestopics/subjects/w/wines/austria/index.html

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5 1 月, 2011 in Learn About Wine