PS I Love You Highlights, July 2011
by Laura Ness
September 14, 2011
As Petite Sirah turns 50 years old, an increasingly young throng of winemakers and growers who produce the grape gathered for the 9th annual PS I Love You symposium organized by Jo and Jose Diaz and held once again at Concannon Vineyard in Livermore.
Hosts Jim and John Concannon made all the gracious introductions, including Dan Berger (Vintage Experiences), Mark Oldman (author of Brave New World of Wine), Ken Wilson (Wilson Vineyards), Brian Geagan (Canton Cooperage), Clark Smith (Grape Crafter), Steve Hall and Robert Biale (Biale Winery) and Ellen Landis (Sommelier, Landis Shores Inn).
Here are some of the highlights of this year’s PSILU seminar that made me smile, and before you read this, grab a glass of Petite Sirah, because as Clark Smith pointed out, it’s impolite to speak about wine in its absence. That’s like gossip.
• Realizing that there are more acres of Petite Sirah planted now than last year and that in 2002, there were only 5k and in 2010, there were 8k acres. In 2002, there were only 62 growers in California, and today there are 1k
• Celebrating the 80th birthday of Jim Concannon and the 100th anniversary of his grandfather planting the first Petite Sirah vines here in Livermore in 1911
• Marking the 50th anniversary of Petite Sirah being bottled as a varietal, by Jim Concannon, in 1961
• Just seeing Jim Concannon, after staying up late at his 80th birthday party, during which he was presented with a magnum of a special honorary Petite-Sirah based blend, “Crimson and Clover,” by his son John, who said, “Dad, we would have had Tommy James and the Shondelles singing tonight, but it wasn’t in the budget.”
• Having the Guglielmo Winery represented at the symposium for the first time: they are the oldest continually family owned and operated winery in the Santa Clara Valley, at 85 years and counting. Never catch up to the Concannons, but they’ve been around longer than most.
• Tasting Petites from as far south as the Ramona Valley near San Diego (Edwards) and as far north at Oregon (Spangler)
• Being blessed by the largest contingent of Petite Sirah producers ever from the Livermore Valley, where the event was held, including Casa de Vinas, Concannon, Crooked Vine, McGrail, Nottingham, Occasio, Page Mill, Thomas Coyne and Wente. Good to see this heritage grape getting so much play in its own schoolyard.
• Tasting Petite Sirah done in every kind of oak, including none whatsoever, thanks to Clark Smith from Diamond Ridge Vineyards, who shared “naked” Petite along with 3 distinctly different oak trials. He cautioned that we were cutting down native oak forests at 4x the necessary rate by buying new barrels. Reuse the old ones and use oak alts. There’s no shame in it. Some of the best wines use oak alts with great success. Try the 2007 Guglielmo, Santa Clara Valley, and taste for yourself.
• Learning that it’s not oak “aging,” it’s “seasoning.” It’s the fungus among us that imparts many of the flavor nuances to American oak. Ellagic acid is the most opulent compound from oak, contributing to mouthfeel and finish. Beta ionine adds the violet aromas. Go for 36-month seasoned on American oak to maximize the vanillin and floral components.
• Immersing oneself in some of the deepest, darkest moonless midnight ponds of pure inky deliciousness, including my top three standouts:
– 2008 Casa de Vinas, Livermore – astonishingly complex and fantastic from its charming aromatics of curry and blackberry bushes to a full throttle explosion of riotous red fruits, and a fabulous suede-like finish. One of the best Petites at the tasting.
– 2007 Silkwood “Satin & Silk,” Lodi – unbelievably silken, wanton texture, like 1k threadcount sheets on top of premium goosedown coverlet. Oozes blackberry brandy, cassis and blueberry tarts in ginger-infused pastry. Sinfully, luxuriously rich, having aged in $1800 French barrels for 4 years.
– 2006 La Storia (Trentadue), Alexander Valley – fabulously swimming with blue and black fruits, laced with licorice and packed with powerful peppery notes from the 10% Syrah. Huzzah!
• Experiencing Petite Sirahs blended with everything from Charbono to Viognier, and Marsanne to Mourvedre, along with Syrah and Zin. Among the standouts:
– Aver Family: 2008 Family Album, Santa Clara Valley, 13% Cab Sauv, 15% Mourvedre. A rich chocolate layer cake with salami, black current, soy and sesame.
– Justice Grace: 2008 York Creek, Spring Mountain, Napa. 1% Marsanne adds pineapple and lavender to a wine laden with minerality.
— 2006 “Shoe Shine,” Solano County. .7% Mourvedre adds wild strawberry jam to this spicy, racy, vibrant wine.
– La Storia (Trentadue): 10% Syrah adds a whole grinders’ worth of cracked white pepper
– Spangler: 2009 “The Terraces,” Southern Oregon. Co-fermented with 1% Viognier for aromatics and intrigue. A tangy pomegranate punch.
– Thomas Coyne: 2006 Livermore Valley, 8% Syrah. Amps up the flavor profile, adding meatiness and a touch of herbs, including licorice basil.
• Being reminded that this is the smallest of grapes, with the most concentrated ratio of juice to skin, the most prolific tannins and yet, when done right, turns into one of the most floral, seductive, plush, elegant, yet gritty wines ever made. Tough, yet sexy, like Angie Dickinson in “Police Woman.” Or maybe Joan Jett. Perhaps Pat Benatar.
Petite Sirah, we do love you, no matter how you rock or what oak you roll around in.
Source: http://www.winebusiness.com/news/?go=getArticle&dataid=90712
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