Cabernet Sauvignon is versatile and well suited to a number of terroirs on both sides of the Andes
March 20, 2011
South of the border, the buzz may well be all about Carmenère in Chile, Malbec in Argentina and Tannat in Uruguay, but whether the South American trio manages to eclipse Cabernet Sauvignon as the continent’s supreme red remains to be seen. Granted, the contest in Argentina is close, with Malbec fast becoming a real threat to the dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon in the Mendoza region. Across the Andes, Carmenère, an obscure Bordeaux varietal (that was confused with Merlot for years), has the chance of becoming the Malbec of Chile. But while Carmenère can be pleasant and fruity, it lacks the depth, complexity and staying power of a top-dog red. As for Tannat, its trajectory in Uruguay is impressive, but it’s doubtful that its ascent will steal too much of Cabernet’s thunder.
The most noble of the noble varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon is versatile and well suited to a number of terroirs on both sides of the Andes, even when the definition of terroir in South America is open to interpretation. But certain essential aspects of what makes up terroir, such as vineyard location and altitude, are being used shrewdly by Argentine and Chilean winemakers to define the sites where cabernet grapes will thrive.
Central to the issue of vineyard location in South America is the towering, snow-capped Andes Mountain range, running north-south like a jagged spine that supports Chile on its west and Argentina on its east. Within the confines of slender Chile, the moderating effects of the Andes work in concert with the maritime influence of the Pacific Ocean (rarely more than 200 miles west of the mountains) to provide Mediterranean-like growing conditions. On the eastern side of the Andes, in the semi-arid Mendoza province of Argentina, vineyards are as far as 900 miles from the climatic influence of the Atlantic Ocean, relying instead on higher elevations as a moderating force in day-to-night temperature fluctuations.
Because of Chile’s wealth of diverse wine regions, it is impossible to pinpoint one specific style of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon (just as it is in California), but generally its Cabs are fruit forward, medium to full in body and texture, and often threaded with a hint of mint. Argentine Cabernets, broadly speaking, are bigger and bolder with more concentrated primary fruit and fuller tannins.
When it comes to comparisons, there is only one that can be made unequivocally: By the end of 2000, the total acreage dedicated to cabernet sauvignon in Chile was 88,874, almost three times the 30,144 acres planted by then in Argentina, the majority of which flourishes in Mendoza.
The largest city in each of Argentina’s 23 provinces is named for the province and also serves as the provincial capital. (Thus, Mendoza is both a province and a capital city.) To be immersed in a conversation about the country’s wine regions can be as confusing as discussing pinot noir clones with Oregon winemakers – it’s a challenge to keep the names straight without a cheat sheet. To complicate matters more, each of Argentina’s provinces are broken into departments, which are then subdivided by districts. The department of Lujan de Cuyo, an important place for high-quality red wines, has ten districts, among them premier locales such as Perdriel, Las Compuertas, Lunlunta and Agrelo.
Within these districts, Cabernet producers target those pockets most suited to growing the varietal. Terrazas de Los Andes, based in Mendoza and owned by Moët & Chandon, farms its cabernet sauvignon at 3,200 feet. Winemaker Roberto de La Mata says, “Altitude is the determining factor in obtaining grapes of intense concentration, body and flavor. We don’t have the cooling influences of the ocean to help with grape development, so we rely on elevation.” He crafts the Terrazas Reserva and Gran Cabernet Sauvignons from the best fruit grown on the terraces of Perdriel, just south of the Mendoza River, and at other high-altitude sites in Vistalba and Tupungato.
Much of the pioneering research done using altitude as a cooling factor in Argentine vineyards is attributed to Nicolas Catena, the owner of Catena Zapata. For 20 years, he and his team have worked to locate key microclimates at various altitudes in the Mendoza region. At higher altitudes, the top soil is thin and the sparse subsoils are peppered with stones – an equation that seems to marry well with the elevations.
Catena’s elaborate experimentation, involving scores of varietals and hundreds of clones stretching across a number of mountain vineyard sites, is yielding concrete results. A recent chemical analysis of grapes from four high-altitude vineyards supports Catena’s position that the same varietal and/or clone, in this case cabernet sauvignon, offers distinct aromas and flavors when cultivated at differing elevations and in varying soils.
“The lower temperatures and higher solar radiation at these various altitudes make for more concentrated flavors in the wines,” Catena explains. Cabernet sauvignon samples in the test included fruit from the Uxmal Vineyard at 3,100 feet above the Mendoza Valley in the Agrelo district (within the department of Lujan de Cuyo), which was ripe with blackberry and cassis aromas and flavors; the same variety and clone from the Domingo Vineyard, at 3,700 feet, showed more spice and black pepper intensity.
“There’s more density of structure at higher altitudes, too,” notes Jose Pépe Galante, Catena Zapata’s winemaker. Furthermore, the study revealed a richness in healthful phenols, such as quercetine and resveratrol, indicative of compounds found in wines made from grapes grown under stressful conditions.
The data also convinced Catena and Galante that malbec and cabernet sauvignon both thrive in high-altitude vineyards. Not coincidentally, the bulk of Catena Zapata’s cabernet sauvignon is planted in hillside vineyards at elevations between 3,000 and 5,000 feet. The lone exception is the Angelica Vineyard, situated at 2,850 feet in the Lunlunta district of Maipu.
The strength of Argentine red wines, such as Catena Zapata’s stellar Agrelo Alta Cabernet, comes from blending the same variety harvested from different microclimates, rather than following the traditional Bordeaux assemblage method of blending different varieties to achieve the whole.
Like Catena, Norton, a Mendoza-based winery whose Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is 100 percent varietal, puts great stock in high-altitude sites. It favors the lower slopes of the Andes on the south side of the Mendoza River. Here, cabernet sauvignon prospers in the alluvial soils of La Colonia at 3,609 feet and at the slightly lower elevation of 3,117 feet in Perdriel. At altitudes such as these, there is an ongoing struggle for grape health and maturity. The use of vertical shoot positioning (VSP) in both Argentina and Chile is common, but to help maximize ripeness in many vineyards in the Mendoza Valley, elevated lyre-shaped trellises lift the grape clusters toward the sun. But this effort is hindered by the prevalent use of hail nets that, while protecting the grapes from the ravages of nature’s icy pellets, block between 16 and 18 percent of the available solar energy.
At the southern end of Mendoza, in the department of San Rafael, Valentin Bianchi secures cabernet sauvignon grown at 2,500 feet from the Asti Estate in the district of Las Paredes. The fruit is earmarked for both the Valentin Bianchi and Enzo Bianchi Gran Cru Cabernet Sauvignons (Bianchi’s Elsa Cabernet Sauvignon draws its grapes from the Dona Elsa Estate in the district of Rama Caida at 2,300 feet). Las Paredes and Rama Caida, with their sandy calcareous soils, are among San Rafael’s coolest wine-growing areas.
Consulting winemaker Robert Pepi, a Californian who was contracted by the Bianchis, explains that the Argentines are making up for lost time. “The present use of altitude for new vineyard plantings in Mendoza is very important,” he says, “because up to the last ten or twelve years the traditional growing regions have been mid-Region I to Region III, on the UC-Davis heat summation system.” Thus, any attempt at growing cool-climate varieties had met with limited success. “Top-quality cabernet can be grown at altitudes of 3,300 to 4,000 feet,” he notes, elevations significantly higher than the formerly traditional 2,100 to 2,500 foot range.
Winter snow melting into the soil helps reduce the need for as much irrigation as required by vineyards in drier locations on the valley floor. Trapiche, a major producer in the Mendoza Valley, farms cabernet sauvignon in its Don Juancito and El Molino vineyards at 3,809 feet above sea level, using much of this mountain-grown fruit in its bargain-priced $10 Oak Cask Cabernet Sauvignon.
In assessing the typical character of Argentine Cabernet Sauvignon, Pepi draws parallels with the Napa Valley, rather than Bordeaux. “The best Cabernets I have worked with exhibited aromas and flavors of cedar, black currant and dark berries, with the green olive and bell pepper coming from higher altitude, cooler vineyards.” And although he says the prospects for Argentine Cabernet Sauvignon are promising, especially for single-vineyard bottlings, he believes that for now, blending in a little malbec is beneficial “because there are more older plantings of malbec around than of cabernet sauvignon.”
The opposite is true in Chile, where cabernet vines were first planted in the 19th century. During the modern era, Chilean wineries have been more aggressive than their Argentine neighbors in their export efforts, but that scenario is beginning to change.
The variety of Argentine Cabernets available in North America is growing every year. The range spans from those cited above to small-production, handcrafted prizes like the bottlings from Mendozan producer Susana Balbo, to more value-oriented Cabs from wineries such as Santa Julia, Viña Calina (owned by California’s Kendall-Jackson Wine Estates), Familia Rutini Wines (producers of Felipe Rutini, Trapiche and Trumpeter) and Bodegas Salentein (an impressive new venture headed by Carlos Pulenta, formerly of Trapiche).
While mountain vineyard sites play a key role in determining the quality of Argentine Cabs, Chile’s premier cabernet vineyards are rooted at lower elevations in the Aconcagua Valley, north of Santiago, and in a collection of small river valleys such as Maipo, Rapel (including the sub-region valleys of Colchagua and Cachapoal), Curico and Valle del Maule, all in the larger Valle Central. Growing conditions in these appellations are similar to those of Northern California with the moderating influences of morning fog and afternoon breezes, but in Chile the smaller river valleys run east to west from the Andes to the Pacific, while the majority of wine valleys in California are oriented north to south.
The Aconcagua Valley, about 100 miles north of Santiago, lies within 25 miles of the ocean, but the majestic Andes are never out of sight. Named for Mount Aconcagua, the tallest mountain in the world outside the Himalayas, and rising to 23,000 feet, the grapes benefit from warm summers and cool sea breezes. Vineyards are planted in alluvial silt, on hills that rise up to 2,400 feet, high enough to avoid the flooding to which the flat lands are subject. But despite the cooling coastal influence, the Aconcagua is still one of the first of Chile’s regions to be harvested, reaching optimum ripeness by late February or early March.
At the western end of the Aconcagua Valley is the Casablanca Valley, a prime, cool-climate zone. Mild winters, little risk of frost, coastal breezes and low-fertility alluvial and sandy loam soils, combine to make this an ideal area for chardonnay, pinot noir and sauvignon blanc. Veramonte, a property pioneered by Napa Valley’s Franciscan Estates almost 15 years ago, has about 1,000 acres of vineyards planted, including some cabernet sauvignon, in a narrow, bowl-shaped side valley with hillside elevations of between 1,000 and 1,400 feet. Winemaker Rafael Tirado notes that cabernet grows best at the higher sites with merlot just below it. “The cabernet we grow here shows more red fruit and floral flavors, rather than the jammy black fruit flavors you get farther south in Maipo,” he explains.
Founder Agustin Huneeus began planting wine grapes in Casablanca in 1990 when there were fewer than 100 acres under vine there. Today Veramonte produces, among a handful of varietals, a popularly priced Cabernet Sauvignon ($10) from fruit sourced from the Maipo Valley. Its top-echelon red, Primus, is an intriguing blend of cabernet sauvignon, carmenère and merlot harvested from its Casablanca Valley vineyards. “Our estate cabernet gives Primus firmness and structure,” Tirado notes.
At the eastern end of the Aconcagua Valley, cabernet sauvignon is the star with more than 1,200 acres planted (merlot, syrah and carmenère follow in descending order). The most prominent winery here is Errazuriz. Owner Eduardo Chadwick grows only reds in the estate vineyards surrounding the winery, which lies just outside the small, picturesque village of Panquehue. Errazuriz’s flagship red is Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve, a concentrated, elegant, 100 percent estate Cabernet Sauvignon.
Vineyard Manager Pedro Izquierdo, who has an admitted soft spot for carmenère, says the granitic soils and moderate climate in the Don Maximiano vineyards, of which there are four – Max 1, which includes the winery complex, through Max 4 – produce Cabernets with chocolate, blackberry and licorice characteristics. Fruit from the quartet is also employed for the cabernet-dominated Max Reserva.
A few miles from the Don Maximiano vineyards, closer to the coast, Errazuriz’s newest estate, El Ciebo, provides yet another cabernet source. Chadwick believes this cooler valley floor vineyard, with its thin, alluvial soils, has great potential for making super-premium reds. Currently, the Aconcagua Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is crafted from El Ciebo fruit.
Chadwick may be best known to North Americans because of the much-publicized partnership he formed with Robert Mondavi in 1996 to jointly produce Caliterra wines at La Arboleda Winery in the Colchagua Valley (about 125 miles southwest of Santiago). At the ultrapremium end of the partnership is Seña, a critically acclaimed blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and carmenère. Grapes for Seña were initially sourced from the Don Maximiano Estate, but in 2000, vines were planted at the Seña Estate, 25 miles from the coast in the western end of the Aconcagua Valley. The 2002, scheduled for release next year, was the first Seña vintage made from the new site.
As esteemed as the Seña enterprise may be, the country’s largest concentration of wineries lies northeast of Colchagua in the Maipo Valley, a sprawling appellation that nudges up to Santiago on three sides. Cabernet sauvignon dominates the red grape plantings in Maipo, with more than 14,000 acres under vine.
The valley’s most venerable producer is indisputably Cousiño-Macul, which has been making wine here since 1856. The original winery, vineyards and adjoining gardens attract a year-round flow of visitors, but creeping urbanization forced the Cousiño family to seek a new vineyard site, settling in 1996 on a 300-acre estate in Buin (pronounced “bween”). Situated in the southern part of the Maipo Valley, near the point where the Andes and the coastal mountain range meet, the property’s calcareous, rocky soils and the maritime climate funneled through the mountain gap were ideal.
In preparation for the move to Buin, the Cousiños chose select cuttings from their established Macul Vineyard to cultivate in their nursery. Today, of the 536 acres planted at Buin, 284 are cabernet sauvignon. Newly appointed chief winemaker and production manager Matias Rivera is bringing the modern facility, situated in the heart of the new vineyard, on line. “The Buin Estate gives fresh fruit, body and structure to our cabernet sauvignon, while the old Macul vineyards in the more northern part of the Maipo Valley provide the elegance that has been so characteristic of Cousiño-Macul wines,” Rivera notes.
In 1883, the Marques de Casa Concha, Don Melchor de Concha y Toro, founded Vina Concha y Toro in the broad Maipo River Valley, believing that the valley floor, not the slopes of the Andes, was the key to quality grapes. Using French grafting stock, he planted cabernet sauvignon, among other varieties. Today cabernet from the old Puente Alto Vineyard is used in the Don Melchor and Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignons.
Another of Chile’s oldest wineries, Viña Santa Rita, established in 1880, lies about 25 miles south of Santiago in the bosom of the Maipo Valley. More than 1,700 acres of vineyards surround a modern winery, a century-old park and the elegant, restored Casa Real Hotel and Dona Paula restaurant. Although Santa Rita relies primarily on Maipo Valley fruit, it also farms cabernet sauvignon and merlot in the Rapel Valley and white varieties in Casablanca and Maule.
Winemaker Cecelia Torres leads the team responsible for a wide-ranging portfolio, from the $7 “120” varietals (named for the 120 patriots given refuge in the old manor house in the 1814 fight for independence), to the $12 Reservas, the $18 Medalla Real Special Reserve and the $65 Casa Real, Santa Rita’s distinguished Cabernet Sauvignon. Torres relies mainly on American oak for aging both the “120” and Reserva Cabs, but invests in French oak for the Medalla Real and Casa Real bottlings.
Viña Santa Rita also has a significant stake in the Colchagua Valley, south of its Maipo Valley base in the form of Viña Los Vascos. It jointly owns the much-heralded property with the Societé Domaines de Rothschild (Château Lafite-Rothschild), which recognized that the granite and clay soils of the valley were ideal for planting cabernet sauvignon. Conceived in 1988, the present-day Los Vascos estate takes in 8,000 acres, 1,200 of which are planted to cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc.
Contrary to Bordeaux protocol, all Los Vascos wines, assembled jointly by winemaker Marco Puleo and Rothschild technical advisor Christian Le Sommer, are 100 percent varietal. “Colchagua Valley is one of the best regions in Chile for cabernet sauvignon,” Puleo says. “We produce elegant cabernet with good fruit and soft, round tannins.” Using select fruit from the estate’s 60- to 70-year-old vines, he makes a $14 Grande Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and the $45 top-of-the-line Le Dix Cabernet Sauvignon.
At the same time that Los Vascos figuratively sprouted, Chilean Aurelio Montes and his partners launched the Montes Winery in 1988 in the Apalta Valley, a hillier part of the Colchagua Valley. Montes sensed that there was greater potential to make superior wines at higher altitudes. Ignoring the flatlands, he developed the La Finca de Apalta Estate – a series of steep vineyard slopes ranging from 15 to 45 degrees in inclination that he deemed ideally suited to cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc. These three varieties make up Montes Alpha “M,” the Bordeaux-style blend that has been heralded as one of Chile’s finest reds. This high-end bottling is compact and dense with good structure and firm tannins, but, typical of hillside wines, it is also closed-in when young.
Just as the knowledgeable wine drinker expects to wait for the hallowed reds of Bordeaux and the more brooding of California’s Cabs to come around, the South Americans are making it increasingly obvious that patience will reward those who seek out the continent’s high-caliber, high-altitude Cabernets. These formidable wines have convinced this critic that, at least for the foreseeable future, cabernet sauvignon remains the soul of South American winemaking.
Contributing Editor Gerald D. Boyd is a Sonoma County-based wine writer who regularly visits the vineyards of South America.
Tasting Bar
Except where noted, the wines are 100 percent cabernet sauvignon. Most were sampled at their respective wineries, but they were not tasted blind. The accompanying “word score” reflects a range of quality as delineated by the BuyLine scoring system. All are presently available in the U.S.
Argentina
Catena, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza – $20: Deep ruby color. Reticent nose of berry and cedar with spicy oak accents. Firm tannins, richly textured flavors of black fruit and sweet French oak. Impressively lengthy. Outstanding
Catena Alta, 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza – $50: Deep inky color. Forward, fragrant aromas of spice and blackberry. Rich chocolate-berry flavors threaded with licorice accents. Supple and fruity with great balance. Superb
Norton, 2000 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza Valley – $15: Brilliant ruby color. Bright cherry-berry nose. Clean, fruit-forward flavors laced with spicy oak and chocolate. Long, sweet fruity finish. Very Good
Norton, 2000 Privada Estate Reserve, Mendoza – $20: Deep inky-purple color. Forward scents of blackberry and spice. Ample fruit, firm tannins and supporting acidity. Good structure with notable length. (A blend of malbec, cabernet sauvignon and merlot that changes based on vintage conditions.)
Very Good
Terrazas de Los Andes, 1999 Gran Cabernet Sauvignon, Los Aromas Vineyard, Mendoza – $45: Deep ruby color. Fresh red fruit aromas with a spicy anise backnote. Big, deep chocolate-berry flavors. Firm tannins through the finish. Outstanding
Trapiche, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Oak Cask, Mendoza – $10: Medium-deep ruby color; forward bright cherry-berry aromas with subtle oak notes; soft tannins, good texture; layered raspberry flavors with a trace of smoky oak; medium-dense finish. Outstanding
Valentin Bianchi, 2001 Elsa Cabernet Sauvignon, San Rafael – $8: Medium ruby-garnet color. Tight, spicy oak and berry scents. Bright berry and spice flavors. Medium body and texture; medium length finish. Very Good
Valentin Bianchi, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, San Rafael – $15: Deep ruby color. Forward aromas of bright berry and black pepper with hints of cedar and tar. Richly textured fruit flavors spiked with anise and pepper notes. Long, balanced finish. Outstanding
chile
Concha y Toro, 1999, Cabernet Sauvignon, Don Melchor, Puente Alto – $40: Brilliant ruby color; intense black cherry nose with clove accents; richly textured blackberry flavors with hints of roasted coffee and dark chocolate; dense finish. Superb
Cousiño-Macul, 2001 Antiguas Reservas, Maipo Valley – $14: Dark ruby color. Bright aromas of blackberry and cedar. Richly textured flavors of black currant and blackberry with hints of chocolate and mint. Refined tannins; impressive length. Outstanding
Cousiño-Macul, 2002 Finis Terra, Maipo Valley – $20: Deep ruby color. Fresh cherry-berry aromas with an edge of oak. Layered black cherry flavors display bright acidity. Soft tannins; long, fruit-packed finish. Outstanding
Errazuriz, 1999 Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Aconcagua Valley – $20: Medium garnet color. Bold aromas of red cherry with a spicy backnote. Good mouth-feel; ripe berry and spice flavors with a cedar nuance. Lengthy finish shows a little heat. (Blended with 3 percent merlot.) Very Good
Errazuriz, 2000 Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Aconcagua Valley – $50: Brilliant ruby color. Forward, bright scents of berry and spice. Layered red fruit flavors with continuing sweet spice notes. Firm tannins; good length. (100 percent cabernet sauvignon.) Outstanding
Los Vascos, 1999, Colchagua Valley Grande Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon – $14: Medium ruby color. Aromatic cherry-berry nose with oaky backnotes. Flavors of black cherry with hints of tobacco. Good texture and length with lots of oak marking the finish. Very Good
Los Vascos, 1999 Le Dix Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley – $45: Deep ruby-garnet color. Shy berry scents. Tight, nicely balanced flavors of bright berry and sweet oak; medium fruity finish.
Very Good
Montes, 2000 Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Colchagua Valley – $18: Inky black color. Very ripe blackberry aromas. Rich, layered dark fruit flavors with spicy notes. Firm tannins; long, textured finish. Outstanding
Montes, 2000 Alpha “M” Cabernet Sauvignon, Apalta Valley – $80: Opaque ruby-black color. Dense aromas of black fruit with spicy oak backnotes. Supremely balanced flavors of blackberry with anise and coffee accents. Great texture; exceptional length. Superb
Santa Rita, 2000 Medalla Real Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley – $18: Deep ruby color. Highly spiced nose of bright raspberry and oak. Concentrated berry and plum flavors mingle with spicy oak. Good length. (Blended with 3 percent merlot.) Very Good
Santa Rita, 1999 Casa Real Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley – $65: Very dense ruby color. Rich nose of chocolate-berry, licorice and spicy oak. Textured, concentrated flavors of dark cherry and toasted oak. Lengthy, balanced finish. Outstanding
Seña, 1999 Red Table Wine, Aconcagua Valley – $60: Medium-dark ruby color. Forward aromas of ripe fruit and spicy oak. Brisk acidity, concentrated berry flavors, sweet, spicy oak and refined tannins. Notable length. (Blended with 5 percent merlot and 5 percent carmenère.) Very Good
Veramonte, 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley – $10: Deep ruby color. Intense aromas of cherry and ripe plum with a delicate mint note. Light entry, but fills out with bright fruit, spicy oak and hints of tobacco and mint. Medium length finish. (Blended with 11 percent merlot and 3 percent cabernet franc.) Very Good – GDB
Source: http://www.thewinenews.com/augsep03/feat.asp
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