Gavi wines are made exclusively from a single indigenous grape variety, Cortese

Date: January 13, 2011

Gavi wines are made exclusively from a single indigenous grape variety, Cortese. The word „Cortese” is found for the first time in a letter by the manager of the Montaldeo castle to margrave Doria in 1659. Up until then, and for a long time after, the vineyards were planted mainly with red varieties, such as Nibiö (local name for Dolcetto) or Barbera. Cortese, together with other white varieties, was distinctly in the minority. The first large-scale vineyard blocks of Cortese went into production as of 1856, on the properties of the margrave Cambiaso, La Centuriona and La Toledana in Gavi.

In 1869 Demaria and Leardi, two scientists on the ampelographical commission, which was established by the province of Allessandria, defined Cortese as ”an indigenous, robust and fertile grape variety, that has been known and cultivated in the region for a long time”.

In the 19th century, important wine-producing estates were established, run by families such as the Raggio, Serra, Sartorio and Spinola. They accompanied the rise of Cortese as a wine of international standing, and at the same time ended the era of domination by red varieties in the old vineyards. Towards the end of the 19th century, the dominance of Cortese increased even further, once it had survived the phylloxera threat. New vines had to be planted, and at the same time the vineyard area was expanded, mainly to satisfy the increasing demand for white wines in the neighbouring region of Liguria. The „Cortese di Gavi” experienced changing fortunes in the 20th century. In the heyday of the typically aromatised wines of the Piemonte – from the first decades of the 20th century until after the Second World War – it was in great demand mainly as a base wine for vermouth. In the second half of the last century it is thanks mainly to the Soldati family and the ”La Scolca” estate that the reputation of Gavi was improved. The real world of production today is extremely varied, there are huge wineries, medium-sized and small ones, and one can find excellent products in each of these categories.

Source: http://www.wein-plus.com/magazine/+Gavi+A+different+type+of+Piemont_ih3266.html
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