“Wyvern” on Hors d’Oeuvres

Now that it is January of a new year, I thought it might be appropriate to give a little bit of thought to little bits of beginnings. On this sure-to-be-slow day, which I began a couple of hours ago lying prone at the bottom of our driveway staring at the sky and hoping for better things after badly pulling my back shoveling snow, Chapter XXII of “Wyvern”‘s Culinary Jottings From Madras (5th edition, 1885; republished London, Prospect Books, 2007, ed. Leslie Forbes) came to mind:

“We must now consider these attractive accessories of an artistic dinner, luncheon or breakfast party, which, under the title hors d’oeuvres, are gradually becoming popular amongst English people whose minds have expanded under the beneficial influence of travel in foreign countries.

Hors d’oeuvres, as you all doubtless know, are little dainties, or kickshaws, carefully prepared, and tastefully served, which, on the continent, are offered to the diner to whet his appetite prior to the more important discussion of the banquet itself. In Italy the service of these trifles under the title of “antipasto” precedes every meal as a standard custom. We have not yet acquired this agreeable fashion, notwithstanding that the sending around of three or four oysters to each guest, with a slice of brown bread and butter, &;c., has for a long time, been no novelty in England, or in Madras. Our custom, as a general rule, is to reserve the hors d’oeuvres to accompany the cheese, and to advocate a change would, I fear, be lost labour on the part of the author of these jottings. As far as luncheon and breakfast parties are concerned, however, surely we might adopt the Italian custom as a novelty, and watch its effect upon our friends, before passing an opinion upon the suitability of the introduction?

Unlike the greater part of our culinary labours, this pretty item of our menu need cost us but little trouble. We can obtain many excellent things wherewith to captivate the appetite, and we can make others which in their way are generally successful. Olives farcies, olives plain, anchovies in oil, sardines, sliced Bologna sausage, preserved tunny, lax, lobster, cod’s roes, seer-fish roes, reindeers tongues, ox tongue, devilled ham, potted meats, fancy butters, herrings a la sardine, pilchards in oil, caviare, oysters, pickles, cucumber, radishes, thin bread and butter, wafer biscuits, and last but not least, “Bombay ducks”, provide us with a goodly list from which to choose our tasty morsels”.

“Wyvern”‘s (the pseudonym of British colonial officer Colonel Arthur Robert Kenney-Herbert, b. 1840 – d. 1916) work is a real masterpiece that deserves a fuller examination that I can afford to give it in my currently prostrated condition. But as a New Year’s tribute to him, here are a few hors d’oeuvre recipes from various international sources. Writing about them (I mean to say, tapping this out on a laptop in bed, prone after crawling home slowly and painfully) removes my mind from present misery and transports me (and you also, I hope) to some lovely places:

Meshwiya

This traditional Tunisian dish is served as a dip, or spread on small chunks of baguettes.

3-4 tomatoes
1 green bell peper
1 tsp. salt
1 tbsp. cumin
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tsp. lemon juice
1/4 – 1/2 cup olive oil to taste

Traditionally, the tomato and pepper skins are removed by grilling over an open flame. If you want to peel your vegetables, dip them into boiling water for a minute or so, and follow with a plunge into cold water. The skins should slip off fairly easily. Chop the peeled tomatoes and pepper into small chunks.

Add the salt, cumin and crushed garlic. If not eating immediately, store the mixture, covered, in the refrigerator. Before serving, add lemon juice and oil.

Variations: Other common additions to Meshwiya are chunks of tuna, bits of black olive, and chopped hard- boiled eggs.

From: The Africa News Cookbook (New York, Penguin, 1985).

Source: http://acravan.blogspot.com/2011/01/january-2nd-wyvern-on-hors-doeuvres.html

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How to get to this fine-dining restaurant in Clark Philippines? Once you get to Clark Freeport, go straight until you hit Mimosa. After you enter Mimosa, stay on the left on Mimosa Drive, go past the Holiday Inn and Yats Restaurant (green top, independent 1-storey structure) is on your left. Just past the Yats Restaurant is the London Pub.

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